‘The best job in the world’: Belfast chef on ‘changing’ kitchens and judging three local

“I think it’s the best job in the world,” said the executive chef at Belfast’s Stix and Stones.

“The industry is evolving and 50% of the staff in my kitchen are women.”

Kerry had a meteoric rise in her career and now manages award-winning kitchens at both Stix and Stones and its sister restaurant at the Balmoral Hotel.

Despite her success, the 34-year-old, who lives in west Belfast, never aspired to be a chef.

“I moved to Northern Ireland from London, where I grew up, when I was 19,” she said.

“My dad is from Donegal and I did a theatre studies degree in Derry when I came here.”

Her culinary career came about through chance when she was working in hospitality.

“Someone was off on holiday, so I filled in for them in the kitchen and I’ve worked there ever since,” she explained.

She was quick to learn the ropes and had a more than a dollop of flair, qualities that eventually saw her compete against some of the best chefs around in the Great British Menu — a challenge she relished.

In the regional final of the TV show, she faced off against other chefs from Northern Ireland to grab a spot in the grand final.

With the programme celebrating Paddington Bear’s 65th anniversary, the theme for the challenge was ‘the best of British animation’.

In her latest role, she is part of the judging panel for the inaugural Ireland’s Next Top Chef contest, the grand finale of which will be held at the Balmoral Hotel in Belfast on Thursday.

While Kerry did not start out as a cook, she has always had a passion for the kitchen.

“I’ve always been interested in cooking, although I didn’t have any specialities. I’ve always been interested in food,” she said.

“I would watch my grandma cook when I was a child. She cooked very traditional meals and baked everything. I remember her rock cakes.”

Since then, Kerry has honed her craft, watching and learning from peers in kitchens across the province.

She believes a big part of her success is down to her experience working with other talented professionals, including Danni Barry, who has a Michelin star to her name.

Kerry will be swapping her chef’s hat for a judging hat at the grand finale of Ireland’s Next Top Chef, which will have three cooks competing for the big prize.

They are Dan Welker from James St, Gareth Crawford from Cu Restaurant and Conor Ryan from Wine and Brine, all based in Belfast.

The purpose of the contest is to shine a light on the quality of cooking and produce in local restaurants.

Kerry said: “If you enter a competition like this, you can’t fail.

“You create something different, you’ve learned something and you’ve taken part in a competition other people are too afraid to enter. It can only be positive.

“It’s good for young chefs to put themselves out there and participate in the competition.”

She has been impressed by the level of skill on display so far.

“We were all really surprised what the chefs produced. It was pleasantly surprising. It was a very high standard,” she said.

The final cook-off will involve the chefs crafting their own special menu in a bid to win over the judges.

“The brief is, ‘Tell us something about yourself through your cooking,” explained Kerry.

“They are three young men and they have created very exciting menus.”

Kerry believes we are spoiled with the variety and quality of food available in Northern Ireland, describing the beef sold in restaurants as “the best in the world”.

Joining her on the panel will be Michelin star chef Danni and Belfast Telegraph restaurant critic Joris Minne.

Kerry said the contest would encourage more young people to consider a career as a chef.

She admitted, however, that the long hours may not appeal to women with families.

“The industry is evolving and I have women working with me in the kitchen,” she said.

“It can be quite difficult if you want to start a family and take that career break. You can’t really run a kitchen on maternity.

“Traditionally it’s been a male-dominated arena, but it’s not so much anymore. Fifty percent of the staff in my kitchen are women.

“I think it’s a similar situation to women in the sciences. Lots of women didn’t think they could do it.

“I would definitely recommend this job to women. I think it’s the best job in the world.

“[In the beginning] it was long hours and gruelling shifts, but the industry is evolving.”

At home you’ll find Kerry in the kitchen cooking up steaks like the ones at Stix and Stones — the team has become famous for cooking dry-aged steaks on hot stones.

Thanks to high-profile chefs such as Danni, Kerry and others, there are strong female role models for women to aspire to.

Kerry said: “Perhaps seeing female chefs will encourage women to feel they can succeed in the industry.”

There is no questioning her love for her job, and when it comes to the competition and the people taking part, she is equally passionate.

She said: “All three finalists have done so well to get so far. I don’t think there will be any losers at the final.”

Ireland’s Next Top Chef: Meet the grand finalists

Dan Welker: James St

Dan Welker has honed his culinary skills during a career that started in Phoenix, Arizona, his hometown, when he was 18.

He has worked in numerous restaurants around the world, including stints in America and Italy. Now he’s in Belfast.

Dan has also worked for Stix and Stones, Deanes at Queens, the Muddlers Club and La Taqueria.

Gareth Crawford: Cu Restaurant

Self-taught chef Gareth began his career in an unconventional manner, balancing a full-time job fitting windows with learning the skills needed to become a professional chef.

When the pandemic hit, Gareth continued with both jobs until he came upon opportunity to open his own restaurant, Cu, in November 2021.

Conor Ryan: Wine and Brine

Conor Ryan has notched up nine years working in professional kitchens, starting from an apprentice and building to his current position as a chef de partie at Wine and Brine.

Conor’s passion for cooking was ignited at an early age because he was surrounded by a family with a rich culinary heritage, including his grandmother and uncle, both talented chefs in their own right.

For more information about Ireland’s Next Top Chef and to buy tickets for the grand final at the Balmoral Hotel on August 3, visit www.irelandsnexttopchef.com